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Profound Wines of Place

An Interview with Heidi von der Mehden, Winemaker, Merry Edwards Winery

By Lisa Gmur, CSW

TANK TALK

When Merry Edwards started her winery back in 1997, she was one of California’s first and most successful woman winemakers. A real trailblazer. Her critically acclaimed Pinot Noirs from estate vineyards in the Russian River Valley are recognized as some of the best in the region. They are rich, ageable wines that speak for themselves.

Today Merry Edwards is still about girl power. Nicole Carter is President of the winery (she also runs the Roederer Estate collection of wines) and the fabulous Heidi von der Mehden is winemaker.  Champagne Louis Roederer, one of the world’s foremost family winery groups, acquired Merry Edwards in 2019.

We had a chance to visit Merry Edwards winery late last year and got to meet both Heidi and Nicole who took us on a winery tour and for a stroll through the Meredith Estate vineyard where we got to kick some dirt and get a real feel for the area.

Following our tour we headed back to the winery for a portfolio tasting and I later talked with Heidi von der Mehden about everything from her winemaking, of course, her very interesting stint in Africa, to yes, her favorite wine and food pairings.

Pictured Left: Heidi von der Mehden

THE INTERVIEW

The Mark Wine Group

Please tell us a little about yourself. For instance, where did you grow up and what was special about it?

Heidi von der Mehden

Santa Rosa, California. It’s in the middle of wine country. I went to school with kids whose families were in the industry. I now work with many of these former classmates as colleagues.

The Mark Wine Group

I cannot think of anything better than growing up in the middle of wine country and still having my childhood friends in my life. How perfect.

I feel like it must have been like our experience staying at the amazing Maefield House in the middle of the Maefield Vineyard, smack dab in the middle of the Russian River.

Heidi von der Mehden

Well, kind of. Our Maefield Estate Vineyard Guesthouse is located near the town of Forestville and the Laguna de Santa Rosa in an area known as Laguna Ridge. When Merry purchased this property, it contained a small, untended vineyard, fruit trees and chicken coops, and most everything on the site was in general disrepair.

In 2015, after significant prep work, the vineyard was planted to Sauvignon Blanc, despite it being on prime Pinot Noir land. (That is how seriously we take our Sauvignon Blanc.) The 2018 vintage of our Sauvignon Blanc was the first vintage where we had the majority of the fruit come from our estate vineyards, which is always our goal.

The Maefield house is a 3,000-square-foot home that features en-suite bedrooms, a fully functional chef’s kitchen, stunning dining area, sauna and hot tub.

The Mark Wine Group

The Maefield house is so fabulous. We can’t wait to send buyers to visit Merry Edwards and to stay there. We also loved kicking a little dirt at the Meredith Estate Vineyard. Would love you to talk a little about the history or this beautiful place.

Heidi von der Mehden

Merry Edwards began her quest to acquire complete control over the winemaking process in 1996, when she purchased land in the Sebastopol Hills of Russian River Valley that would become the winery’s premier single-vineyard Pinot Noir bottling, Meredith Estate.

We are now farming all of Meredith Estate organically and intend to attain certification eventually, but stewardship of this site has always included the use of sustainable, renewable farming practices.

Meredith Estate is the flagship wine of Merry Edwards Winery. It is a wine that balances elegance and power. It has complex aromas of rose petals, wild strawberries, dried violets, tea and baking spice. Its tannins tend to be lush and silky and also full bodied with a lot of depth. It is a wine crafted for aging.

The Mark Wine Group

With that, let’s talk a little Merry Edwards, the winery and the woman.

Heidi von der Mehden

Merry Edwards Winery was founded and built by yes, a woman, more than 25 years ago. And even after Merry’s retirement in 2020, we are still a women-led business.

We continue to be mentors, innovators and tireless workers like the founder who came before us.

Merry was a lot of fun to work with. She was always experimenting with new ideas and trying new things. She liked action, which made it exciting to work with her.

The Mark Wine Group

I especially love the girl power at Merry Edwards! There is such an amazing energy. What originally brought you there?

Heidi von der Mehden

When I started at Merry Edwards, I had already been in the wine industry for almost 15 years. My most recent experience had been taking over winemaking at Arrowood Winery from Richard Arrowood.

Therefore, I already had the experience of being able to learn from an industry icon. I understood the balance of respecting a founder’s brand and way of winemaking, while moving it forward.

The Mark Wine Group

What is the secret ingredient? What makes Merry Edwards wines so special?

Heidi von der Mehden

The attention to detail that goes into growing and making our wines is phenomenal.

From pruning to the vigor of each vine in winter to bringing in the last grape at harvest, from barrel selection to blending to bottling, each aspect is scrutinized.

We firmly believe everything we do has an effect on the end product, so we treat our vineyards and land, our crop and each other with the respect they deserve.

The Mark Wine Group

What’s the most interesting and unique part of your job?

Heidi von der Mehden

My job is always interesting because I’m at the mercy of Mother Nature.

I have to be ready to deal with all sorts of curveballs she throws at me, from frost to extreme heat, to smoke. Also, you almost have to be a jack of all trades, as a winemaker.

Aside from making wine, I’m dealing with romantic things like waste water treatment systems, maintenance of a winery building, government compliance, sales and marketing.

The Mark Wine Group

LOL. I love that description of the not so fun parts of your job. Wondering about your education and other wine experiences.

Heidi von der Mehden

My education was mostly on the job. Later in my career I did the UC Davis certificate course. (I received my degree in chemistry from Santa Clara University in 1997.)

Some of my other experiences included working in a custom crush winery where I saw a variety of ideas about how to make wine from a diverse group of winemakers.

That still helps me to deal with the different challenges that I encounter today as a winemaker.

The Mark Wine Group

What do you think makes the Russian River so distinct for growing grapes?

Heidi von der Mehden

I would say the fog. It regulates the temperatures so that we get the best flavor development in the grapes. The fog hangs in longer during the day, so it is a cooler area.

The Mark Wine Group

I keep remembering that day we visited Meredith’s Vineyard. The fog made for such beautiful setting.  I always find walking through the vineyards to be so peaceful. Is that how you feel?

Heidi von der Mehden

No. I find excitement and wonder! There’s always something new to observe and think about. It gets my mind turning to new ideas.

maefield vineyard

Our Maefield Estate Vineyard is located near the town of Forestville and the Laguna de Santa Rosa in an area known as Laguna Ridge. When Merry purchased this property, which now includes our winery guesthouse, it contained a small, untended vineyard, fruit trees and chicken coops, and most everything on the site was in general disrepair.

In 2015, after significant prep work was completed, the site was planted to Sauvignon Blanc, despite the vineyard being on prime Pinot Noir land. (That is how seriously we take our Sauvignon Blanc.) The vineyard contains a mix of clones – two-thirds are Sauvignon Blanc Clone 1, known as Shenandoah, and one-third Sauvignon Musqué – so we have the exact ratio of the grapes we need. The 2018 vintage of our Sauvignon Blanc was the first vintage where we had the majority of the fruit come from our estate vineyards.

This wine brims with floral and tropical fruit aromatics and contains a citrusy, juicy core. Barrel fermentation and twice-weekly lees stirring help us create its characteristic creamy texture and rich body. Its essential fragrances include white peaches, lime zest, delicate white pineapple and ripe stone fruit. Upon entry, the creamy texture is buoyed by bright acidity. Ruby red grapefruit, white blossoms and citrus flowers linger on a seamless finish.

Pictured Right: Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc

Continued

The Mark Wine Group

Ha! I never thought of that.  What’s your favorite part of the job?

Heidi von der Mehden

Walking the vineyards right before harvest.

The Mark Wine Group

I totally get that. There is such an incredible energy in wine country right before harvest. Have you experienced harvests in any other wine growing regions outside of  Russian River Valley?

Heidi von der Mehden

All of my harvests, except one, have been in Sonoma County: Sonoma Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Knights’ Valley. I did one harvest at Babich in New Zealand. I love that country.

The Mark Wine Group

Yes! I fell madly and deeply in love with New Zealand too. We actually flew over the vineyards in a helicopter in Christ Church which was amazing. Would love to go to Central Otago next visit. Their pinots are gorgeous. And speaking of pinot. If I had to guess, I am thinking your favorite grape varietal is the heartbreak grape?

Heidi von der Mehden

Pinot Noir it is.

The Mark Wine Group

What’s your go-to pairing with it?

Heidi von der Mehden

Pinot Noir with barbequed leg of lamb!

The Mark Wine Group

That sounds pretty fabulous. Any other favorite food and wine pairings?

Heidi von der Mehden

Champagne and raw oysters. Sauvignon Blanc with fresh Dungeness Crab.

The Mark Wine Group

Classic and delicious picks. My mouth is definitely watering. Do you have a favorite cuisine?

Heidi von der Mehden

My go-to is Italian because my mom is of Italian origin. She’s an amazing cook. But I truly love any cuisine that is authentic.

The Mark Wine Group

Totally agree. Authenticity is key. And speaking of family; we would love to hear a little about yours.

Heidi von der Mehden

I have two little boys, ages 9 and 6, and an amazing husband who takes care of everything for us when I’m in the middle of harvest. The boys love to come to the winery: I have lots of fun equipment to show off and many acres of vineyards to run through.

The Mark Wine Group

What kid wouldn’t love that!  How about you? Anything you love to do when you are not working?

Heidi von der Mehden

Now that my two sons are a little older, I’m starting to consider hobbies more seriously again. I am an active person who likes to do a variety of fun things (running, snowboarding, gardening, traveling, camping), but I am not focused on one specific thing at this time.

The Mark Wine Group

What is the most interesting thing about you?

Heidi von der Mehden

I served in the Peace Corps as a Secondary School Chemistry teacher after college. I served in Tanzania and I took 2 groups of my students to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro while there.

The Mark Wine Group

Putting that chemistry degree to work. Gotta love that. And in Africa to boot. What an amazing experience. Thank you so much for doing this. I have really loved getting to know you.

Heidi von der Mehden

I loved it too! Thank you.

Merry Edwards

Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley

Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast

Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley

Heidi von der Mehden & Merry Edwards